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Bring us some fresh wine, the freshest you've got!"

But white wine Malaysia drinkers do this exact thing all the time. "White wine can age incredibly well," he says. Many California whites just are not built for aging, but Kalin's "Cuvee L.V." Chardonnay from 1995 is a rare, delectable exception with toasty, tangerine, and honeyed aromas.

A number of these age-worthy whites come from cooler climates such as the Mosel region of Germany--where mostly Riesling grapes are grown --and France's Loire Valley. The grapes in cooler regions do not ripen as quickly, creating acidity that, as a preservative, will function jointly with some sweetness. To having more of a tannic structure like reds, whites from warmer areas, such as the southern Rhone or Spain's Rioja, may also age nicely thanks. Classic dessert wines for example Sauternes and Tokaji, too, have a concentration of sugars that makes them built to survive.

John McIlwain, of Chambers Street Wines in Manhattan, is also a fanatic. Contrary to popular belief, he says that the initial fruit notes of a white wine may fade a bit, but in addition they become more honeyed. Even the manner in which the wine feels in the mouth takes on "a lovely burnished texture, while the acid energizes it without tasting sharp."

White wines can be during aging than reds more delicate, so make sure they've been stored correctly. The surest method would be to buy directly from the winery: Some of them, for example Marin County's Kalin along with Lopez de Heredia in Spain, release them later and will hold vintages back. And while an elderly white may look less thirst-quenching, it compensates with a wide array of nutty aromas, and honey, spice and a feel that's heavier and more refined. Here are five companies to watch out for.

Lopez de Heredia

This classic Rioja property ages all its wines before discharge, and it makes merely a Gran Reserva--that's, the most sophisticated and intense --in years when the growing conditions are outstanding. The present Tondonia Gran Reserva available on the market is the 2003, but also look for 1994 and 1987. Or go back more than three decades for the 1981 version, which is full bodied, nutty, and rich.

Moet & Chandon

The carbon dioxide of champagne is a preservative, so bubbles can hold up very well. Whenever Moet releases a fresh vintage--the latest is from 2004--an elderly "library" wine hits the shelves as well, straight from its basements. The 1992 Grand Vintage is round and chubby in texture, with scents of pastries and roasted nuts.

Raveneau

Chablis can be delicious when recently made, but it tends to go mute for some time before opening up after a decade or so. Raveneau is a top company, and the 2000 Blanchots Grand Cru Chablis, this wine is a sleek powerhouse. It comes from one of Chablis' seven Grand Cru vineyards - that is, one that is formally acknowledged as truly one of the region's finest, based on earth, growing states, and a long history of making excellent wines.